Monday is castles

A fine sunny day for a walk up to the Castle by cobbled narrow lanes that have been here a long time. A shop-Verba- trumpeted in trendy Guardian travel item is nothing but a building site. Ephemeral. The Castle is medieval and beneath its walls the crumbling soil reveals lots of pottery sherds. Some green glazed, a rim of black and others with lead glaze. No sections of handle, always an interesting indicator of quality. Inside the courtyard it has a been rather over-renovated and they seem keener on catering facilities than history.

The skyscraper is clear from here. Going down is much easier than up and there is a narrow lane that brings me out into the old town.

A walk walk along the street recommended by Mariana reveals a whole raft of Art Nouveau buildings. The earthquake in 1895 was perfectly timed for rebuilding in Secessionist style.

The guitar recital at 7.30 poses a dilemma. Restaurant ( very authentic) closes for last orders at 8.30 which is not very user friendly. So eat very early or go elsewhere? The latter. But then when I get to the much-praised venue, all doors locked and a notice in Croatian only announcing they have cancelled it at the last moment in a spirit of panic. Don’t really see the point given that nowhere else is shut down.

Go back to Bosnian place of first night, where girl recognises me and gives me an enormous table to myself. Sweet irony, there are two couples within spitting distance who are Italian. Food is good again.

I have a plate of 5 small kebabs which is quite filling but can’t help noticing two Croatian lads demolish same dish but with ten! Conversation with the barman adduces the view that the whole business is a media hype and normal flu is not so very different. Get back to hotel/restaurant at ten past nine to find whole place like a morgue, no sign of anyone.

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