Tombs- friday

Get up at seven as apparently it is better to go to Gol Gumbaz ahead of the crowds. Breakfast is papaya and a couple of fried eggs. No bread no coffee.

Same walk down the bypass to pick up a tuktuk into town. The monument is huge. Described as being the largest dome in the World after St Peter’s. Inside is very stark and grey, quite different from the mausoleums in Turkey or Iran.

He went to such lengths to have a lasting memorial and all people come for is to make noises up in the dome. The dome itself is accessed via the four towers on each corner. Each step is about 9″ high and roughly hewn. Coming down will be interesting. Again it is totally without ornamentation. There is a recurring echo ten times around. There are just two Indian boys up there. I can see why to avoid the crowds. Looking down makes you appreciate the scale of the building.

There’s a chap at the top whe tells you which tower to go down on a one way system. He offers to do me a “selfie”.

Going down, barefoot, is slow. The passage is narrow so the lack of a handrail is not so serious. As I leave crowds are pouring in. Phew.

This is Bara Kaman. It was due to house the remains of the son of the man who built Gol Gumbaz. But dad murdered him and knocked down most of the arches in case they threw a shadow on his place. Makes Henry VIII and monasteries seem like a vicarage teaparty. Again totally deserted. And an eerie unloved feel. Karnataka is Congress territory but still there is a suspicion that all this Muslim heritage is uncared for. Makes me think of Armenian Ani in NW Turkey.

It’s pretty hot-35 in the shade and….. – so decide to head back to rustic idyll that is Sabala. The conflict there is you have to be close to the office to get WiFi. Nothing is perfect.

Fix up a tuktuk to take me into town in the evening and wait. Food is OK but not remarkable. Portion control is the biggest problem. Too much for one person. Five Russians walk in to the A/C saloon. Portions will suit them! I wait to see if they are staying-its pure veg and no beer- and when they start to settle I offer to change table as I am at a six. Idea dismissed not even a thank you from the big guy who is obviously the guide. Bloke my age goes out for a fag and the Boss soon has the three women in stitches. Wonder where it will end.

Tuktuk is only ten minutes late coming to take me back. Hope he will be more punctual in the morning to get an early start for Bidar

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